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The Ultimate Teak Care Guide: Oil, Protector, or Varnish?


Comparison of teak furniture treatments: Golden teak treated with water-based protector versus black mildew spots caused by traditional linseed teak oil.
Stop feeding the fungus: Traditional oils trap dirt and encourage mildew (right). Modern water-based protectors block UV rays while letting the wood breathe (left).


Do not use traditional "Teak Oil" on outdoor furniture. Paradoxically, most "Teak Oils" are made from linseed or tung oil, which trap moisture and encourage black mildew spots. To maintain the golden colour, use a Water-Based Teak Protector. To achieve the classic silver-grey patina, simply leave the wood untreated and clean it once a year with soapy water.

One of the most common questions we get at Palm and Olive is: "What do I need to put on this table to protect it?"

The honest answer? Nothing.

Unlike other woods that rely on chemical sealants to survive, Grade A teak is naturally saturated with rubber and oils. It protects itself.

However, how you treat the wood determines how it looks. Here is the definitive guide to the three main options.

Option 1: The "Natural" Look (Do Nothing)

Effort Level: Zero. Result: Distinguished Silver-Grey.

If you leave your teak garden bench untreated, the UV rays from the sun will gradually bleach the surface pigments. Over 6–12 months, the honey colour will fade into a beautiful, uniform silver-grey patina.

  • Pros: Lowest maintenance; classic "English Garden" aesthetic; zero cost.

  • Cons: None structurally (it is purely cosmetic).


  • Maintenance: A simple scrub with hot soapy water once a year to remove pollen or bird droppings.


Option 2: The "Golden" Look (Teak Protector)

Effort Level: Low (Once a year). Result: Warm Honey/Gold.

If you want to keep that "new wood" colour, do not use oil. Instead, use a Water-Based Teak Protector.

These modern formulas coat the wood fibers to block UV rays (like sunscreen) and prevent the grey oxidation, without trapping moisture.

  • Pros: Keeps the warm, golden look; non-greasy; eco-friendly.

  • Cons: Needs reapplying once a year.

  • How to Apply: simply wipe on with a cloth in spring. Dries in an hour.

Option 3: The "Mistake" (Teak Oil)

Effort Level: High. Result: Often patchy, black spots, or mildew.

Here is the industry secret: "Teak Oil" rarely contains teak. It is usually a blend of linseed oil and solvents.

When you apply this to outdoor furniture, it feeds naturally occurring fungi, leading to black spots (mildew). Furthermore, because it never fully dries, it traps dust and dirt, turning your beautiful table a dark, dirty brown over time.


Our Advice: Avoid traditional oils for outdoor furniture. They are fine for indoor tables, but a nightmare for the garden.

Option 4: The "Disaster" (Varnish)

Effort Level: Extreme. Result: Peeling, flaking, and sanding.

Never varnish teak. Teak is an oily wood. Varnish will not adhere properly to the surface. Within a few months, water will get under the varnish, causing it to bubble and peel. You will then have to sand the entire piece of furniture back to raw wood to fix it.

Summary: The Palm and Olive Care Routine

  1. Spring: Clean with hot soapy water and a stiff brush.

  2. Summer: Enjoy. (If you spill red wine, wash it off immediately).

  3. Autumn: If you want the "Golden" look, apply one coat of Teak Protector.

  4. Winter: Leave it alone. (Or cover with a breathable cover if you hate cleaning).

Ready for a low-maintenance life?

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